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Freeze-proof faucets can still benefit from insulation, and they will need covers if you live somewhere with extremely cold winter temperatures. These faucets work with a design that keeps excess water in the pipes inside the home to minimize the risk of freezing, plus a downward slope for any water flowing through the pipes to keep moving. But keeping a cover on all faucets, even freeze-proof fixtures, is the best way to avoid frozen and burst pipes.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

Plaster itself has a higher R-value than drywall. However, there are other considerations surrounding plaster and insulation. As a general rule, it's easier to obtain consistency in insulating value and quality when working with drywall rather than plaster. Plaster walls often don't contain any insulation behind the wall covering by design, and careful evaluation is necessary when choosing to add it.

Garage door insulation can last anywhere from 20 to 100 years depending on the type of insulation. Cellulose has the shortest lifespan coming in at between 20 and 30 years, while spray foam, mineral wool, and fiberglass can last between 80 and 100 years with proper maintenance. 

Humidity plays a role in how long more susceptible insulation materials—like fiberglass—last. Once fiberglass batts reach the 15-year mark, you'll need to routinely inspect your insulation to ensure that it is in mint order.