How to Install Brick Veneer Siding in 13 Steps

To prevent water from getting into your home, install a moisture barrier—a 15-pound felt wrap—to the existing sheathing on the wall. Use staples to fasten it into place, and cut openings for windows, doors, and air vents.

Use a story pole to indicate the tops and bottoms of window and door openings. You’ll need to ensure proper spacing to install rowlocks or stone sills around these openings. You’ll also want to use your story pole to indicate every fifth row of bricks; you’ll need to pay attention to these rows when it’s time to install corrugated brick ties.

If you don’t have a story pole, you can create one using a spare piece of lumber, measuring tape, and a pencil.

To form your base row (called a “course”) of brick veneer, you’ll need to attach an angle iron along the foundation. This will support the first layer of bricks.

Snap a chalk line along the foundation wall to ensure a straight installation. Measure the length of the wall and cut your angle iron to size with a chop saw. Drill holes into the iron at 1-foot intervals. Then, using a measuring tape, drill matching holes along the chalk line on the foundation and insert lag shields.

Prop up the angle iron against the foundation wall, and fasten it into place using lag screws.

Lay a 1-inch-thick bed of mortar along one end of the angle iron, roughly two to three bricks wide. Drag the trowel along the center of the mortar to form a depression (called “furrowing”).

Starting at the edge of the wall, install your first brick. Leave precisely ½ inch of air space between the foundation and the edge of the brick. Press the brick firmly into the mortar, leaving a mortar bed that is ⅜ inches thick.

Use your trowel to trim off the excess mortar. You can mix this back into the mortar bucket or apply it a little farther down the angle iron for future bricks.

Continue along this first course, laying several more bricks. Be sure to apply mortar between the bricks (called “buttering”), also at ⅜-inch thickness. At four-brick intervals, use your level to ensure you’re installing in a straight line (this ensures your mortar bed is consistently ⅜ inches thick).

As you move along, check your mortar under and between laid bricks to see if it’s ready for striking. The mortar needs to be set part-way but not completely dry. At that point, strike it with your concave jointer.

Let more time pass so the mortar can completely set up, then return to it to remove the excess with a brush. Use a wet rag to wipe off any smears on the bricks themselves.

As you continue down the course, you’ll need to create weep holes. These allow water to drain out from behind the brick, which prevents water damage, mold, and mildew.

You can create weep holes by placing a cord (¼-inch thickness) in the mortar between two bricks. Do this about every 2 feet along the course (and subsequent courses). As the mortar starts to set, tug the cord out, and you’ll have a small weep hole for water to drain.

Before you completely finish the first course, you’ll want to return to the ends of the wall to start building up multiple courses (called “building the leads”). Start every other course with a half brick, which ensures each row is offset from the row above and below it.

After you’ve built the leads, you can finish your first course and work your way up. Use a masonry line block to ensure your rows remain level as you move up the wall. You can also use your level to ensure you’re on the right track.

When installing the final brick of any course, butter both ends with mortar. If you’ve measured ahead and kept your mortar thickness consistent, it should slot right in, but you can always trim your brick with a masonry saw as needed.

For extra stabilization, you’ll need to install corrugated brick ties at every fifth course. Use a stud finder to locate each stud along the wall and install the brick tie at each stud interval.

Brick ties are L-shaped. You’ll place the bottom of the L along the brick below it, with the top of the L butted up against the moisture barrier with the stud behind it. To install, nail the brick tie into the stud, then mortar over the bottom of the brick tie and install your next brick on top of it.

Depending on the height of the walls, you may need a ladder or scaffolding.

If you’re installing brick veneer around windows, you’ll likely create a rowlock beneath the window. (Alternatively, you can purchase and install stone sills.)

To get the right angle of the rowlock, use a T-bevel to measure the angle of the window sill. Transfer it to your bricks and cut them at that angle.

Install these cut bricks beneath the window. Ensure they’re angled slightly down so that water runs away from the window.

Above windows and doors, you’ll need to install another angle iron. Cut it roughly 4 inches longer on either side than the length of the opening. Attach it above the window, install metal flashing, and then create a rowlock course on top of the flashing.