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Hydroseeding is a great option for sloped yards, as sod might not root as well. Hydroseeding also traditionally creates sprouts faster than normal seeding—up to a full week faster. Additionally, you can customize your slurry mix with hydroseed, allowing you to create a mixture that will work specifically for your yard’s conditions. 

It’s important to remember that hydroseeded lawns require a lot of water during the first few weeks of installation, which can be time-consuming and costly. Additionally, the installation window tends to be shorter than that of sod and traditional grass. 

To prepare your yard for river rocks, smaller rocks may require laying landscape fabric to keep the stones from sinking into the ground while encouraging proper water drainage. You should also clear the land of weeds and larger boulders and, in some cases, test the density of the soil to ensure it can handle the weight.

First, dig a hole that’s the same depth as the root ball and wide enough for the roots to spread out fully. Before placing the tree in the hole, pour water in to help get rid of any air pockets in the soil.

When filling the hole back in, opt for a 1:1 ratio of organic compost with the soil left over from the ground. Do not use potting soil, fertilizer, or chemicals of any kind, as these can stress out and kill your newly planted tree.

When you purchase mulch for delivery, it’s usually by the cubic yard, so you’ll want to convert your space to cubic yards to get the right amount. First, determine the square footage of the area you want to cover, and then determine how deep the bed of mulch will be—a good rule of thumb is around three inches. Multiply your square footage in feet by the depth in inches and divide by 324. You may want to add a ½ to one additional cubic yard to ensure you have enough.