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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

You should avoid drilling or cutting into load-bearing beams because removing material will weaken it and increase the risk of structural damage or even collapse. If you do need to drill into a load-bearing beam, speak with a structural engineer first to discuss where it’s safest to drill and the width and depth of the bit that’s safe to use.

In framing, studs are placed at 16-inch intervals to coincide with the typical spacing of wall materials such as drywall or plywood. This spacing is called "on-center" and is necessary for maintaining structural stability and efficient use of materials. The 16-inch spacing also helps to distribute the weight evenly across the building's structure. For those looking to cut material costs and improve energy efficiency, 24-inch stud spacing can be employed through a method called "advanced framing". This requires careful planning and adherence to local building codes to ensure structural integrity.

Yes, an LVL beam is more affordable than the cost of a steel I-beam, totaling between $50 and $200 per linear foot as opposed to the $100 to $400 per linear foot you’d pay for a steel I-beam. Not only is the wood material more affordable than steel, but it’s also more similar to traditional wooden beams and doesn’t require as much retrofitting to connect joists.