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It's safe to assume that all exterior walls are load-bearing, or at least have load-bearing characteristics. Some older homes feature porches or bump-outs that don't rest on the home's foundation. However, they still must carry the weight of the roof section they support. Walls containing floor-to-ceiling glass or other non-structural elements must use post and beam configurations to meet load-bearing criteria.

Cathedral ceilings make a statement in your home, but at the cost of your attic space. Normal attics are wide open, which allows warm air to move around and exit your home. Because of this, cathedral ceilings make your home less energy efficient and put your ceiling at risk of venting issues if you’re not careful. They also reduce your attic storage space, potentially cause an echo, and even make it harder to change a light bulb.

You should avoid drilling or cutting into load-bearing beams because removing material will weaken it and increase the risk of structural damage or even collapse. If you do need to drill into a load-bearing beam, speak with a structural engineer first to discuss where it’s safest to drill and the width and depth of the bit that’s safe to use.

The depth of any foundation style depends on your climate and how deep the frost line is, as building code requires that the footers of a foundation—which are built into a monolithic slab—sit at least a foot below the frost line. At the southern tip of Florida, for example, a monolithic slab foundation would only need to sit 12 inches under the soil at the widest parts. On some parts of the Canadian border, the frost line is 100 inches, which would mean a minimum of 112 inches, which is prohibitively deep for a monolithic slab.