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Liquid rubber is great for waterproofing, but it can damage your deck if it’s not applied correctly. First, it can trap moisture in the wood if the deck isn’t completely dry before application.  Second, applying it too thickly can create a heavy, rubbery surface layer that peels and cracks under fluctuating temperatures. For the best results, ensure the wood is completely dry before application, and apply the liquid rubber in thin, even coats. A quick inspection every now and then will help you catch any issues early, keeping your deck protected and looking its best.

In most cases, there should be a small gap between the house and the deck, usually no more than ½ to ¾ of an inch. This space allows water and moisture to flow through instead of pooling against the side of your house. It also lets flashing protect your siding from runoff, which is one of the most common issues with decks.

Cutting the boards directly is one of the fastest ways to remove deck boards with hidden fasteners. Mark two parallel lines that are one-third of the total measurement on both ends and cut out the centerpiece. Then, remove the end of the board that doesn’t have a fastener. Finally, pry open the fastened side and pull it up to pop out the screw or access the fastener. This also allows you to salvage portions of boards for other projects.

It’s important to make sure the wood on a new deck is properly seasoned. Seasoning a deck is simple: Once you build it (or have a pro do so), just leave it alone so it can acclimate to the environment. If you don’t give the deck proper seasoning time before staining, the stain can lock in any lingering moisture and cause mold, rot, and other moisture issues down the road. Give the wood at least four to eight weeks to season before you stain.