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Staining or sealing a cedar deck or fence is highly recommended to extend its lifespan and protect it from the elements. While cedar is naturally resistant to mold and mildew, it is not impervious to damage from moisture, sun exposure, splintering, fading, and rot over time. Applying a protective finish creates a shield that preserves the wood's strength and appearance, potentially extending its life by five to 10 years.

When choosing a finish, it's helpful to understand the difference between a sealer and a stain. A sealer sits on top of the wood, whereas a combination stain and sealer soaks into the top layer. Because it penetrates the wood, a stain generally offers better protection against UV damage and rot and lasts significantly longer. For the best results that also preserve the wood's natural color, consider using a near-translucent stain.

To maintain protection, plan on reapplying the stain or sealer every two to three years, either as a DIY project or by hiring a professional.

For the longest-lasting exterior paint, consider acrylic or enamel (oil-based) paints. Acrylic paints, including acrylic latex and acrylic enamel, are known for withstanding harsh weather and sun exposure. Enamel-based paints are also one of the most durable options available. While latex paint is common, it typically has a shorter lifespan than acrylic or oil-based options. The paint's finish also affects its durability; a higher gloss finish is generally more durable. For resistance to moisture and cracking, matte and satin finishes can be effective, while a high-gloss acrylic or oil-based paint offers a combination of maximum longevity and durability.

It’s important to make sure the wood on a new deck is properly seasoned. Seasoning a deck is simple: Once you build it (or have a pro do so), just leave it alone so it can acclimate to the environment. If you don’t give the deck proper seasoning time before staining, the stain can lock in any lingering moisture and cause mold, rot, and other moisture issues down the road. Give the wood at least four to eight weeks to season before you stain.

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.