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Generally, you do not need to drain your pool to convert it to a saltwater system. The main exception is if you have used an antibacterial agent containing polyhexamethylene biguanide to sanitize your pool, as these sanitation products do not mix well with saltwater systems. If this is the case, you will need to start fresh. You can either drain the pool or treat the existing water with a high dose of chlorine to remove the antibacterial agent. If you choose the chlorine treatment, wait several days to allow the chlorine to work before proceeding with the conversion. If you are unsure whether this applies to your pool, consult a pool technician.

You should always run your pool pump in freezing weather to keep the water moving. Doing so prevents the pool water from freezing and protects your pool from the damage that often comes along with frozen water. You should also run your pool pump when temperatures are approaching freezing, as a precaution. There’s no need to run a pool heater during the winter, as keeping water moving is generally enough to keep it from freezing.

If you don’t bond a pool, you risk electric shock for those walking around or swimming. Bonding creates safe pathways between the electricity needed to run the pool and metallic parts also necessary for the proper function of the pool. Once the pool is bonded, it’s ready for grounding, the second step in creating an electrically safe pool.

Pool chemical levels should include a pH between 7.4 and 7.6, alkalinity between 80 to 120 ppm, and chlorine from 1 to 3 ppm. The size and type of your pool determine additional chemical levels, such as stabilizers and pool shock, but you can get to know these numbers using our pool maintenance 101 guide.