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Avatar for Vantage Point Exteriors
Vantage Point Exteriors
3.8(
122
)

Serving Chetopa, KS and surrounding areas

In business since 2012

Free estimates

Emergency services offered

"The windows were installed. A screen was damaged and to be replaced. After two years no screen and numerous calls. Their word and guarantee to us is worthless...... never again! I have learned a lesson........
"
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Deck Staining questions, answered by experts

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

  • Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

  • Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

  • Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

  • Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

  • Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

  • Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

Here's the deal with leaving used rags covered in oil-based stain lying around in a pile: Depending on the conditions, these rags can take just an hour or up to a few days to combust. The source of ignition is caused by trapped heat that can be compounded if the rags are near a heat source.

Liquid rubber is great for waterproofing, but it can damage your deck if it’s not applied correctly. First, it can trap moisture in the wood if the deck isn’t completely dry before application.  Second, applying it too thickly can create a heavy, rubbery surface layer that peels and cracks under fluctuating temperatures. For the best results, ensure the wood is completely dry before application, and apply the liquid rubber in thin, even coats. A quick inspection every now and then will help you catch any issues early, keeping your deck protected and looking its best.

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

Stain is meant to be absorbed by the porous wood, allowing some of the natural grain to show through. With that in mind, you don’t want to add more stain than the wood can absorb, as you risk covering up its natural markings. Generally, two coats is the maximum you should do, although very dense hardwoods may only be able to take a single coat.

The Chetopa, KS homeowners’ guide to deck staining services

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