How Much Does a Radon Mitigation System Cost? [2025 Data]
The average radon mitigation system costs $1,028 to install. Costs vary by home size and age, so expect to pay between $786 and $1,273 on average.
The type and size of the system you need will play the biggest roles in your costs.
Slab foundations may require additional encapsulation that can add thousands to your total.
Budget for a radon detection system along with mitigation to keep you and your family protected.
Always speak with a professional to determine the best type of system for your home.
A low-level pressurization system is the most affordable but may not be suitable for high levels of radon in the home.
The average radon mitigation system costs $1,028, though it ranges between $786 and $1,273. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), radon is an odorless, invisible gas that can cause cancer at high levels of exposure over several years. In some regions of the United States, enough radon is naturally present in the ground that it can seep into homes through the basement. Fortunately, radon mitigation is possible with a proper ventilation system.
Radon Mitigation System Cost Factors
Proper radon gas mitigation is designed specifically for the home it’s installed in, so your costs may differ from the national average. How much a radon mitigation system costs depends on the chosen method, the price of materials and labor in your area, and various other factors broken down below.
| Cost Factor | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| System Type | $500–$2,500 |
| Inspection | $150–$800 |
| Permits | $25–$150 |
| Foundation | $1,500–$15,000 |
System Type
A radon mitigation system consists of vent fans and pipes, and the use of higher-quality schedule 40 PVC pipe tends to drive up costs. There are different types of mitigation systems, but they all function in a similar way—sucking the radon out of your house and dispersing it outside.
These systems are usually built directly underneath or attached to the room with the most radon exposure. Installers will be careful not to install a system in a way that could compromise either the value or structural integrity of your home.
Home Size
The larger a home, the more materials and time are needed to install a radon mitigation system. Large basements, additional crawl spaces, and multiple stories are all factors that can increase costs due to added equipment needs. Your radon mitigation pro will need to see your home to give you an accurate estimate.
Location
Where you live can impact your radon mitigation costs. The prevalence of radon in your area, your local cost of living, the number of nearby specialists, and region-specific EPA regulations all impact mitigation rates. Methods may also vary by climate. For example, you may need extra insulation on sewer lines and pipes in colder climates to account for the added ventilation.
| City | Average Cost |
|---|---|
| Kansas City, MO | $700 |
| Denver, CO | $800 |
| Boston, MA | $1,000 |
| Atlanta, GA | $1,100 |
| Chicago, IL | $1,200 |
| New York, NY | $1,400 |
| Albuquerque, NM | $1,500 |
| Los Angeles, CA | $2,000 |
Permits
Some cities and towns may require a permit before radon mitigation work can begin. Expect a fee of $25 to $150 in these cases. If your project involves any electrical work, such as wiring and installing a radon fan, you may also need to secure additional permits and inspections, as well as hire a licensed local electrician.
Foundation Type
The EPA states that in some regions of the United States, enough radon is naturally present in the ground that it can seep into homes through the basement. To diminish this risk, your home’s foundation can help determine which radon mitigation method is the most effective. Unfinished basements may need sealing and a ventilation system, which costs about $4,600. A crawl space without a foundation slab may need additional encapsulation that costs $1,500 to $15,000, but you may get a price break if you bundle crawl space encapsulation with mitigation.
Cost of Radon Mitigation Systems by Method
Radon mitigation systems can take one of three approaches: sealing the basement, depressurization, and lower-level pressurization. The depressurization method happens in one of two types: active suction (soil depressurization) or passive depressurization. Each of these approaches has a different average cost range.
| Method | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| Sealing the Basement | $400–$4,600 |
| Active Suction Soil Depressurization | $1,000–$3,000 |
| Passive Depressurization | $500–$2,500 |
| Wall-Based Systems | $500–$3,000 |
| Ventilation Systems | $1,300–$2,500 |
| Water Mitigation | $1,200–$5,000 |
Active Soil Depressurization Systems
Also called “subslab” or “soil suction” mitigation, these are highly effective and the most popular radon-removal method. These use PVC pipe to constantly suction gas trapped beneath your basement floor or crawl space, preventing radon from entering through foundation cracks.
Passive Depressurization
PVC pipes run beneath the foundation or crawl space and up the exterior walls, but there’s no suction fan. Rather, it uses the difference in air pressure between the radon and the ambient air to push out the radon. It’s not efficient for high radon levels.
Sealing the Basement
You can encapsulate a basement or crawl space, but it’s half as effective as the others, and you may need repeated resealing.
Wall-Based Systems
A wall of cinder blocks is placed around the radon-affected room, and an exhaust pipe vents the gas from the space between the blocks before it can enter the living space.
Above-Slab Air Pressure Differential Barriers
ASAPDBs are another wall/floor-based system. The room and foundation are made airtight, and a radon sink is created at the base of the venting pipe, where a small fan draws the radon out of the house.
Ventilation-Based Systems
With Energy recovery ventilation systems (ERVs), two fans remove radon and vent it outside. The energy used to replace the air is partially offset by the power generated from removing the bad air, creating an energy loop.
Heat Ventilation System
HRV systems work similarly to ERVs, but capture the heat generated during air transfer and use it to heat the replacement air. These are popular in cold climates.
Radon Mitigation in Water
The two water mitigation techniques are granular activated carbon (GAC) filtration and water aeration. Carbon absorbs radon and efficiently cleans your water using bubbling or spraying aeration that disperses water molecules, releasing radon. A fan then removes it. You must carefully monitor these systems for increased radioactivity and build-up of radon in the carbon, though.
Who Should Get a Radon Mitigation System?
You should get a radon mitigation system if you experience one of the scenarios below:
Your home is in an area known to have high radon.
You’ve tested your home’s levels before and have consistently had high radon values.
You or your household members are sensitive to radon, or healthy individuals show symptoms of radon poisoning.
Your home has poor ventilation or a damaged foundation.
Your home has crawl spaces that are exposed to rock and soil.
Ongoing Costs to Consider
Here are a few additional cost factors to consider when budgeting for a radon mitigation system.
Radon Tests and Inspections
Radon contamination requires monitoring. The frequency and depth of checks depends on the initial lradon levels and your specific mitigation system. A GAC system needs more frequent checks to ensure uncontaminated drinking water.
Your radon installation pro will let you know when it’s time for an inspection—and in some cases, you can DIY it. Some systems include wireless capabilities, so the company can monitor radon levels remotely.
Energy Costs
The suction needed to redirect radon gas may also ventilate heated or cooled air out of your home. This can affect your energy bill, though an experienced radon mitigation pro should be able to minimize this type of energy loss.
Warranty
Radon is a serious threat, so you may want to purchase a warranty for peace of mind. If something goes wrong with your radon mitigation system and the work is guaranteed by the pro that installed it, you can have repairs made at no extra cost.
Installing a Radon Mitigation System Yourself vs. Hiring a Pro
DIY radon mitigation is not recommended. Aside from the specialized skills and tools required, an incorrectly installed system can compromise the air quality in your home and create a dangerous environment for everyone in your household. Hiring a local radon mitigation specialist can save you time and ensure a more thorough result.
Tips to Save Money When Installing a Radon Mitigation System
The costs of home radon mitigation can add up quickly. Here are a few tips to help you save without cutting corners on this important project.
Use a home testing kit to see if you have enough radon for pro testing and mitigation.
DIY seal an unfinished basement prior to mitigation.
Get three or more quotes from radon testing companies near you to ensure you get a competitive price.
Get three or more written quotes from local pros to ensure you get a competitive price.
See if companies offer referral programs or discounted rates for new customers.
Talk to your tax professional about the possible tax benefits of paying for the system using a health savings account or flexible spending account (HSA/FSA).
Find out if you qualify for tax advantages or home repair grants in your local area.
How Angi Gets Its Cost Data
Home is the most important place on earth, which is why Angi has helped more than 150 million homeowners transform their houses into homes they adore. To help homeowners with their next project, Angi provides readers with the most accurate cost data and upholds strict editorial standards. We’ve surveyed thousands of real Angi customers about their project costs to develop the pricing data you see, so you can make the best decisions for you and your home. We pair this data with research from reputable sources, including the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, academic journals, market studies, and interviews with industry experts—all to ensure our prices reflect real-world projects.
Want to help us improve our cost data? Send us a recent project quote to costquotes@angi.com. Quotes and personal information will not be shared publicly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Radon enters your home when warm air begins to rise and exits through the roof, creating a vacuum that pulls cooler air from under the foundation. Part of that air is radon, which is an invisible, odorless gas that develops naturally when radioactive particles are deep within the ground. Those particles usually come from decaying matter in soil and rocks.
There is a vast difference in the lifespan of radon mitigation systems. Passive systems tend to last longer, as they don’t require the changing or replacing of parts—like a fan or energy capture device—as often. The more active a system is, and the more moving parts it has, the shorter its lifespan. Water filtration devices and active pressurization systems require the most maintenance and, possibly, have the shortest lifespan.
Your radon mitigation system may be loud because it’s time to replace it. Any sounds are usually from the inline fan that helps create the vacuum and resulting airflow. If you hear a new, loud mechanical or humming noise from your radon fan, it might be time to replace it. Most fans used in radon mitigation systems last up to 10 years, but may need to be replaced sooner.
No, radon mitigation systems do not decrease home value or make a home harder to sell. In areas where homes experience similar radon exposure risks, a radon mitigation system is viewed as an improvement. Potential homebuyers often opt to buy a home with a radon mitigation system already installed to reduce the risk of cancer for their families.
The average radon mitigation system uses about 876 kWh of electricity per year, although the exact amount of electricity used will vary depending on the size of the radon fan. Once the system is installed, the annual increase to your energy bill could range from $30 to $300 per year, again depending on the size of the fan.
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