8 Steps to Help You Install Interlocking Pavers DIY

Mapping out a location for your interlocking pavers is the key to successful installation.

Here are some questions you need to answer before you can get started.

• Where will you install your pavers?

• Can you dig at least six inches, if not nine or 12, in all these areas? (Think about where your gas line locations.)

• What obstacles do you need to clear first?

• Does your area require a permit or approval to install pavers?

• Will the pavers section be even, or will you need to cut individual stones to fit certain areas?

The last question, in particular, can help you decide if outsourcing isn't a better option. You'll need to buy or rent a masonry saw and cut individual stones if there will be large gaps or cross-sections that need specifically sized stones, which isn't a job for everyone.

Trees, roots, or other objects need clearing out before starting your project. If it will get in the way of digging your base, it probably needs to go.

Unless you're picking up your pavers yourself, it might also be a good idea to clear an area near the workspace to leave your pavers for ease of installation. This will save lots of manual hauling with a wheelbarrow later.

Dig a clear, clean, and level base using a shovel or powered excavation tool. The bare minimum is six inches, but nine inches works best for most projects.

Interlocking pavers are usually three inches in thickness, but you'll need to account for the sand or gravel base, somewhere between three and five inches, below it.

Pavers are only as sturdy and even as the base you create for them. This step, while less labor-intensive, is probably the most important of the entire process. If your base isn't level, your pavers will shift over time, or may not sit flat once complete. Pavers also naturally expand and contract with the weather, so an angled base will expose any flaws in your work quickly.

Use a hand tamper in the space to flatten the dirt. It can be helpful to put a level in the work area to find any gaps. You want your base to be as flat and compacted as possible.

Add your layer of sand or gravel, then use the same tamper to compact it. 

The only time this step isn't required is if you're putting pavers over concrete, which is technically possible. You'll need mortar to help secure them in place.

To help contain your pavers and keep them even, installing some type of edge around your project area is highly recommended before adding stones.

There are two ways you can do this:

• Install flexible plastic pavers edging around the perimeter of the work area.

• Layer additional concrete or paver stones around the perimeter.

Choose your strategy and install accordingly.

For better reinforcement, some homeowners may opt to lay two pavers stacked on top of each other vertically along the edges. If you do this, though, you may need to dig a deeper hole (12 inches) and then layer in more sand or gravel before starting.

With your edge secured and the base layer leveled, you can now layer your interlocking pavers one by one. Start from one edge of the work area and work your way outward and down.

Lay each paver stone carefully into position. Avoid dragging, sliding, or bumping the paver stones, as this could disrupt the firm, level base you built earlier. Fix any area that gets messed up during installation. Work slowly and make sure each stone touches the last one you've laid closely. Leave no gaps.

For awkward angular meetings, such as when a walkway connects to a patio, you may need to cut interlocking paver stones to fit these areas. Use a masonry saw to do this.

Be absolutely sure to wear hand and eye protection when cutting stones. Ask for assistance from a local handyperson service if you feel like this part of the task isn't for you.